夏朝冠

清世宗 雍正帝夏朝服

夏朝冠清朝宗室、貴族、官員等,在重要典禮、大型祭祀等穿著朝服時所搭配的夏季冠帽,又稱之為涼冠。男性佩戴的夏朝冠是清朝官員服飾的一種。根據清朝乾隆年間成書的《皇朝禮器圖式》一書中所言,其使用時間約莫是在3月15日、25日到9月15日、25日,合計約6個月左右。[1][2]。相对的是冬朝冠

清代皇太后、皇后夏朝冠

以清代皇帝為例子,清代皇帝的夏朝冠,是以織玉草或藤絲竹絲為材質編織為基礎的,外面再用一層羅緣石、一層青斤金合計兩層包裹,裡面用紅片金或紅紗製作,帽沿是敞開的,上面也用朱緯(帽頂上呈傘狀的紅色纓穗)[3]綴飾。而帽子正前方用金佛綴飾,上面鑲有東珠十五顆,正後方則用舍林綴飾,上面則鑲有東珠七顆。而其頂部則與冬朝冠是相同的,三層金龍形狀的基座,每層金龍基座之間會有一顆東珠將彼此間隔開,每層為四條金龍盤繞的雕飾,每條金龍上還會鑲上一顆東珠,而在基座的最上方還會銜上一顆大東珠,此即為清代皇帝的夏朝冠樣式了。[1][2]

而清代皇后,皇太后的樣式則是,以青絨來作為帽檐的樣式,其餘則和冬朝冠一般,在此之上會有三層金鳳形狀的基座,每層金鳳基座之間會有一顆東珠將彼此間隔開,並且在此之上還會綴上朱緯,每層有一隻金鳳,每隻金鳳上各裝飾東珠三顆、珍珠十七顆。而後沿著帽子上會有金鳳七隻,每隻金鳳上各裝飾東珠七顆、貓睛石一顆、珍珠二十一顆。而在帽沿的正後方,會有金翟一隻,上面裝飾有貓睛石一顆、小珍珠十六顆。而金翟的尾巴會有五串垂珠,被青金石結分為兩段,每串上還有一顆大珍珠,共計三百零二顆珍珠,最末端則是以珊瑚點綴。而青金石結上還裝飾有東珠六顆、珍珠六顆,並且上方還以黃金裝飾。而冠後的護領則是垂下兩條明黄色的帶子,末端上裝飾有寶石,並以青緞為帶。而在基座的最上方還會銜上一顆大東珠,此即為清代皇太后和皇后的冬朝冠樣式了。[4][5]

清稗類鈔》中亦曾說道:「涼帽者,夏秋之禮冠也,立夏前數日戴之。無簷,形如覆釜。有二大別。一曰緯帽,初熱時用白色或湖色之羅胎者。極熱時用黃色紗胎之內有竹絲者,曰卍絲胎,上綴紅纓,絲所織也。」

男性夏朝冠

  • 青朝上至皇帝,下至百官都是以織玉草藤絲竹絲編織而成的朝冠基礎,惟皇帝和皇太子的夏朝冠的上方是用朱緯來進行裝飾,而其餘則是用紅絨裝飾。
清代男性冬朝冠等級圖
前方裝飾 後方裝飾 頂層基座 基座裝飾 上銜寶石 翎羽 宗室男性貴族 宗室額駙 功勳貴族 一般官職
金佛
東珠十五
舍林
東珠七
上綴朱緯
金龍三層
每層東珠一,每層金龍四
每隻金龍東珠一
大珍珠一 清朝皇帝
金佛
東珠十三
舍林
東珠六
上綴朱緯
金龍三層
東珠十三 大東珠一 皇太子
舍林
東珠五
金花
東珠四
金龍二層 東珠十 紅寶石 皇子、和碩親王
舍林
東珠五
金花
東珠四
金龍二層 東珠九 紅寶石 親王世子
舍林
東珠四
金花
東珠三
金龍二層 東珠八 紅寶石 多羅郡王
舍林
東珠三
金花
東珠二
金龍二層 東珠七 紅寶石 多羅貝勒
舍林
東珠二
金花
東珠一
金龍二層 東珠六 紅寶石 戴三眼孔雀翎 固山貝子 固倫額駙
舍林
東珠一
金花
綠松石一
金龍二層 東珠五 紅寶石 戴雙眼孔雀翎 奉恩鎮國公不入八分鎮國公 和碩額駙
舍林
東珠一
金花
綠松石一
金龍二層 東珠四 紅寶石 戴雙眼孔雀翎 奉恩輔國公不入八分輔國公
鏤花金座 東珠四 紅寶石 民公(非宗室公爵)
鏤花金座 東珠三 紅寶石 侯爵
鏤花金座 東珠二 紅寶石 伯爵
鏤花金座 東珠一 紅寶石 鎮國將軍(分三等) 郡主額駙 子爵 一品文官、一品武官
鏤花金座 小紅寶石 鏤花珊瑚 輔國將軍(分三等) 縣主額駙 男爵 二品文官、二品武官
鏤花金座 小紅寶石 藍寶石 奉國將軍(分三等) 郡君額駙 三品文官、三品武官
鏤花金座 小藍寶石 青金石 奉恩將軍 縣君額駙 四品文官、四品武官
鏤花金座 小藍寶石 水晶 鄉君額駙 五品文官、五品武官
鏤花金座 小藍寶石 硨磲 六品文官、六品武官
鏤花金座 小水晶 素金 七品文官、七品武官
鏤花金座 花金 八品文官、八品武官
鏤花金座 花銀 九品文官、九品武官、未入流
鏤花金座 金三枝九葉 進士身分
鏤花銀座 金雀 舉人貢生監生身分
鏤花銀座 銀雀 生員身分


參考文獻

  1. ^ 1.0 1.1 《皇朝禮器圖式·卷四》:「本朝定制,三月十五日或二十五日,皇帝御夏朝冠,織玉草或藤絲竹絲為之,綠石青片金二層,裏用紅片金或紅紗,上綴朱緯,前綴金佛,飾東珠十五。後綴舍林,飾東珠七。頂如冬朝冠。」
  2. ^ 2.0 2.1 大清會典·卷三十》:「夏秋涼冠,即緯笠。素表朱裏,緣以纁錦。」
  3. ^ 房宏俊. 薰貂皮皇帝冬吉服冠. 故宮博物院. [2022-03-27]. (原始内容存档于2022-05-01). 
  4. ^ 《皇朝禮器圖式·卷四》:「皇太后皇后冬朝冠,謹按,本朝定制,皇太后皇后冬朝冠,薫貂為之,上綴朱緯,頂三層貫東珠各一,皆承以金鳳,飾東珠各三,珍珠各十七,上銜大東珠一。朱緯上週綴金鳳七,飾東珠各七,貓睛石各一,珍珠各二十一。後金翟一,飾貓睛石一,小珍珠十六。翟尾垂珠,五行二就,共珍珠三百有二,每行大珍珠一。中間金銜青金石結一,飾東珠珍珠各六,末綴珊瑚。冠後護領垂明黃縧二,末綴寶石,青緞為帶。……皇太后、皇后夏朝冠,青絨為之,餘俱如冬朝冠。」
  5. ^ 大清會典·卷三十》:「皇后冠施,鳳頂高四重,上用大東珠一,下三重貫東珠三,刻金為三鳳,各飾東珠三。冠前左右綴金鳳七,各飾東珠九,貓睛石一。後綴翟鳥,飾貓睛石一,承以朵雲。垂珠為步搖,凡五行二就,行間施圓青金石銜以金,綴東珠珍珠各六。」
  • 《皇朝禮器圖式·卷四~卷七》
  • 《欽定大清會典》
  • 《清稗類鈔》

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