Smoking

Tre menn i forskjellige typer smoking

Smoking (britiskengelsk dinner jacket eller black tie, amerikansk tuxedo) er et antrekk som brukes av menn i forbindelse med større fester eller feiringer på kveldstid. Smoking er stadiet mellom mørk dress og kjole og hvitt hva angår formelle herreantrekk.

En smokingjakke er som regel av ull, og skal ha jakkeslag i sateng, ofte silkesateng. Jakken kan være både enkelt- og dobbeltspent, og har enten spisse slag eller sjalskrage. En smokingjakke er fortrinnsvis sort, men også midnattsblått er korrekt. I sommerhalvåret eller i sydlige strøk er også jakke i hvitt vanlig.

Buksene er alltid sorte, selv om jakken er i en annen farge. Smokingskjorten er hvit med doble mansjetter, den kan ha stivet bryst i piké for pynteknapper med og uten stivet krage. Til smoking skal man alltid bruke sort tversoversløyfe, fortrinnsvis selvknytt. Tradisjonelt sett ble det benyttet en lavt skåret vest i samme stoff som jakken, men rundt 1920 ble magebelte populært i de britiske koloniene, da det ble brukt til å legge ballkortet i. Derfor skal brettene på magebeltet vende oppover. Til smoking benyttes kun lakksko. Hverken smoking eller lakksko skal noen gang benyttes før klokken 18:00. Man går heller aldri i smoking når man skal i kirken.

Ved anledninger hvor menn bruker smoking, skal kvinner på tilsvarende måte bruke selskapskjole men ikke bunad, som i Norge i utgangspunktet er klassifisert som galladrakt.

Historikk

Smokingens opprinnelse finner man tilbake ved slutten av 1800-tallet. Amerikanerne feiret hundreårsjubileum for sin tuxedo i 1986, men det er en kjensgjerning at Henry Poole i Savile Row, Londons legendariske skreddergate, «made a short smoking jacket for the Prince of Wales as early as 1865». Her røpes forøvrig ett av smokingens historiske opphav; det som i England kalles «smoking jacket» – en fløyelsjakke man iførte seg når man skulle røke etter en middag og lignende. Den nye engelske moten ble lagt merke til av en tilreisende, James Potter fra Tuxedo Park i New York, som gikk til Poole og fikk sydd en jakke å ta med seg hjem – herav den amerikanske betegnelsen «tuxedo».

Litteratur

  • Lundesgaard, Erik (2005): Skikk og bruk, Cappelen
  • Roetzel, Bernhard (1999): En gentleman: håndbok i klassisk herremote, Könemann
  • Christensen, Mads (1998): Absolutt mann, en guide til ham om klær og stil, Cappelen

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