Idem pastillum, si frustum casei in ofellam superimponitur, cheeseburger nominatur. Ipsa ofella hamburger steak appellari solet.
Pastilla farta Hamburgensi pristino similia in Civitatibus Foederatis necnon alibi recenter venditantur, exempli gratia pullina, porcina, gallopavonina. Veggie burger etiam proponitur ("pastillum oleraceum" vel "pastillum castimoniale"), ofella de phaseolo seu cicere ex aromatibus confecta immissa.
De pastillis Hamburgensibus in litteris Americanis nonnumquam legitur. Bis in mythistoriis Sinclair Lewis protagonistae apud ganeam[4] seu lunch-wagon ("carrum pransorium") comedentes monstrantur;[5] in mythistoria brevi Truman CapoteIn Cold Blood pastillum Hamburgense in ganea sumitur.[6] Persona J. Wellington Wimpy narrationis pictae nubeculatae Popeye the Sailor Man, ab Elzie Crisler Segar compositae, anno 1931 inceptae, amator pastillorum Hamburgensium pecuniis semper carens, rapidissime tam celeber fit ut nomen suum catenae popinarum Wimpy(en) daret, anno 1934 conditae.
Origo et primitiae
Isicium, quod partem carnosam huius ferculi constituit, fortasse ex isiciis iam in Germania septentrionali confectis, Frikadelle appellatis, imitatum est. Iam annis 1870 a cauponibus magna parte per Hamburgum ad Civitates Foederatas immigrantibus talia isicia variis in urbibus in popinis Germanis inferebantur. Hamburg steak ("frustum bubulum Hamburgense") per analogiam nuncupabantur, quamquam non e frustis bubulis sed e carne concisa in ofellas refecta proveniebant, quia eodem tempore ofellae carnis bubulae concisae crudae ad invalidos nutriendos nomine Salisbury steak conficiebantur; botuli appellationibus urbium Europaearum frankfurter et wiener iam nominati erant. Anno 1872, primus omnium nobis cognitorum, poëta Robert Bluebeard Kydd de his deliciis cecinit:
Qui autem primus isicium Hamburgense nuper frictum inter frusta panis immiserit, ut verum cibum viarium constituerit, haud scimus. Hoc ante annum 1893 certe accidit, quo anno in urbe RenoNivataeHamburger steak sandwiches semper prompta venisse asseverantur.[10] Post tres annos Chicaginecibus promptus verbis non ambiguis describitur:
A distinguished favourite, only five cents, is Hamburger steak sandwich, the meat for which is kept ready in small patties and cooked while you wait on a gasoline range ("multo tibi gratissimus, quinque centesimis nec pluribus panis fartus Hamburgensis oblatus est, qui promptus in forma isiciorum tenetur atque in craticula gase succensa dum opperiris coquitur").[11]
Venditores loco frustorum panis mox pastillum rotundum (Anglice bun) ad isicium Hamburgense involvendum adhibere solebant, quod pistores assidue anno 1902 et fortasse iam antea producebant.[12]
Hae copadiae viariae, ab initio verbis pluribus denominatae, iam ab anno 1898 singulo vocabulo hamburger ("[pastillum] Hamburgense") nuncupari coeperunt, sicut in diario urbis S. LudoviciMissuriae de "gustu populari deliciarum pullinarum bubularum aliarumque apud thermopolia pransoria" legitur, the public taste for fried chicken, hamburgers and other lunch stand delicacies.[13] Quibus pransoriis tam viariis quam forensibus hamburger stands ("thermopolia Hamburgensia") communiter appellatis,[14] sive mox lunch wagons ("carri pransorii"),[5] satis liquet pastillum Hamburgense inter cibos Civitatum Foederatarum gratissimos iam illo aevo enumerandum esse.
Imperium Hamburgense
Saeculo 20 in Civitatibus Foederatis pastilla Hamburgensia non cibum viarium tantum constituebant sed etiam prandium operariis scholariisque oblatum, victuale domo paratum. Mox ganeae vel popinae, pastilla Hamburgensia venditantes, loco tabernularum viariarum florere coeperunt. Singulae ganeae crebriter in omnibus fere urbibus conditae sunt, quarum satis multae etiam hodie manent. Sed Gualterus Anderson, qui ab anno 1916Wichita in urbe tabernulas viarias ponebat, et Waldo Ingram mercator eiusdem urbis, ab anno 1921 catenam popinarum mediis urbibus Americanis aedificare inceperunt sub nomine mercatorio White Castle ut pastilla Hamburgensia consedentibus inferrent. Post decem annos hi ambo centum triginta et unam popinas possidebant.[15]
Pastillum Hamburgense apud Americanos plurimis ab annis 1890 desideratum, apud Canadenses saeculo XX ineunte cognitum, in alias regiones orbis terrarum partim ad usum militum Civitatum Foederatarum sed maiore parte a societatibus commercialibus ad delectationem civium introducebatur. WimpyAngliam ab 1953 et Africam Australem ab 1967, Burger KingAustraliam ab 1971 (sub nomine speciali Hungry Jack's), McDonald'sIaponiamBrasiliamque et Germaniam ab 1971, Franciam ab 1972, Thailandiam ab 1985, Russiam et Sericam ab 1990 invaserunt. Inter novas catenas enumerari possunt Bob's ab 1951 in Brasilia incepta, Little Chef ab 1958 in Anglia, MOS Burger et Lotteria ab 1972 in Iaponia, Jollibee ab 1975 in insulis Philippinis, Ramly Burger in Malaesia ab 1979 florentes, Nirula's in India ab annis 1950: hic autem, carnibus bovinis non venditatis, isicia pullina et ex holeribus confecta in pastillis immitti solent.[18]
Notae
↑Haec vox invenitur apud Roberti MaierVisuelles Wörterbuch Latein-Deutsch, Dorling Kindersley Verlag GmbH, Monaci 2010, ISBN 978-3-8310-9091-4, p. 155.
↑Cf. "isicium Hamburgense" (Ebbe Vilborg, Norstedts svensk-latinska ordbok, editio secunda, 2009), quod nomen ad ofellam referre debet.
↑Wyoming buffalo patty, whole wheat bun, Mozzarella, pan seared foie gras, black Perigord truffle sauce with a side of sweet potato fries.
↑[Milt] ducked into the door of the Old Home Poolroom and Restaurant. [He] ranged up to the short lunch counter, in front of the pool table where two brick-necked farm youngsters were furiously slamming balls and attacking cigarettes. Loose-jointedly Milt climbed a loose-jointed high stool and to the proprietor, Bill McGolwey, his best friend, he yawned, "You might poison me with a hamburger and a slab of apple, Mac": Sinclair Lewis, Free Air (1919)
↑ 5.05.1He wandered to an all-night lunch-wagon, where he gloomily drank coffee. Beside him, seated at the long shelf which served as table, beneath the noble red-glass window with a portrait of George Washington, was a policeman who ... gnawed a Hamburger sandwich ... With his spoon held inside the cup by a brawny thumb, the policeman gulped his coffee and proclaimed, while the greasy friendly cook of the lunch-wagon nodded in agreement ... "He's one awful brainy man": Sinclair Lewis, Arrowsmith (1925)
↑"Perry, baby," Dick said, "you don't want that burger. I'll take it." Perry shoved the plate across the table: Truman Capote, In Cold Blood (1966), p. 72.
↑Robert Bluebeard Kydd, The Old Trunk and New Carpet-Bag (1872), cf. Popik (2005)
↑"Hamburg steak ... simply a beefsteak redeemed from its original toughness by being mashed into mincemeat": New York Times (19 Ianuarii 1873), cf. Popik (2005)
↑"One Hamburger sandwich man disposed of 400 buns to hungry pedestrians Thursday": Davenport Republican [Iova] (28 Iunii 1902); similiter Decatur Daily Review [Illinoesia] (16 Octobris 1902); cf. Popik (2005)
↑St. Louis Republic (19 Augusti 1898), cf. Popik (2005)
↑"These attractions will include everything from the hamburger stand to the merry-go-round and the Japanese swing": Decatur Herald [Illinoesia] (28 June 1904)
Jeffrey Tennyson, Hamburger Heaven: the illustrated history of the hamburger. Novi Eboraci, 1993
Praecepta culinaria
1993 : Marcel Desaulniers, Burger Meisters: America's best chefs give their recipes for America's best burgers plus the fixin's. Novi Eboraci, 1993
1995 : Marcel Desaulniers, Burgers: classic American hamburgers and their accompaniments. Londinii, 1995
2004 : Rebecca Bent, Tom Steele, Burgers: 50 recipes celebrating an American classic. Clarkson Potter, 2004
2004 : Emily Bloom, Burgers Every Way: 100 recipes using beef, chicken, turkey, lamb, fish and vegetables. Novi Eboraci, 2004
2013 : Andy Husbands, Chris Hart, Andrea Pyenson, Wicked Good Burgers: fearless recipes and uncompromising techniques for the ultimate patty. Fair Winds Press. ISBN 1592335586
2015 : Jens Fischer, The Art of the Burger : More Than 50 Recipes to Elevate America’s Favorite Meal to Perfection. Skyhorse Publishing. ISBN 1632205084
2016 : George Motz, The Great American Burger Book: How to Make Authentic Regional Hamburgers at Home. Novi Eboraci: Harry N. Abrams, 2016
2018 : Chris Kronner, Paolo Lucchesi, A Burger to Believe In: Recipes and Fundamentals. Ten Speed Press. ISBN 0399579265