Marcellus Boulestin

Wikidata Marcellus Boulestin
Res apud Vicidata repertae:
Marcellus Boulestin: imago
Marcellus Boulestin: imago
Nativitas: 1878; Pictavium
Obitus: 20 Septembris 1943; Lutetia, Circumdarium XVI Lutetiae
Patria: Francia
Nomen nativum: Marcel Boulestin

Marcellus Boulestin, nomine pleno natali Xavier-Marcel Boulestin (Pictavii anno 14 Aprilis 1877 natus;[1] Lutetiae mortuus die 20 Septembris 1943), fuit diurnarius Francogallicus, restaurator Londinii versatus, auctor librorum Anglicorum de re coquinaria. Ab anno 1899, sicut Colette et Curnonsky aliique nonnulli, scripta composuit sub aegide Willy, quorum nonnulla sub nomine suo divulgaverit. Popinam Restaurant Boulestin Londinii anno 1926 exeunte condidit, quae usque in annum 1994 a successoribus conducta erit. Liber eius celeberrimus, titulo Simple French Cooking for English Homes (1923), a recensoribus plurimis laudatus, usque in annum 2011 iterum impressus est. In libellis New Yorker anno 1932 Marcellum Boulestin, eo tempore celeberrimo, Donaldus Moffat "philosophiae mensarum doctorem" laudavit, "legatum iuxta Anglos in rebus coquinariis, sagacem Franciae optimatem, cosmopolitanum, vigentem lepidumque commentatorem, popinarum Londiniensium omnium optimae gestorem."[2][3]

Iuvenis

Max Beerbohm, L'Hypocrite sanctifié (1905): involucrum.

Pictavii apud aviam atque cum matre in communi S. Eulaliae praefecturae Dordoniae educatus est. Ibi cibos rurales iuvenis magno pretio aestimare didicit.[4] Studia iurum Burdigalae suscipiens, ubi iam commentationes criticae de musica apud libellos Courrier musical scribebat, mox Lutetiam petivit collaboratorque fit Henrici Gauthier-Villars agnomine Willy (cui a secretis meruit) huiusque uxoris Colette. Sub nomine suo dialogum Le Pacte anno 1899 divulgavit. Anscharium Wilde moriturum anno fere 1900 observavit "senectute defessus, potationes apud Grand Café sumentem".[5] Angliam bis brevius visitavit fabulamque Anglicam a Max Beerbohm scriptam Francogallice anno 1905 convertit. Amici his annis de eo ipso scribebat, Colette qui personam "Hicksem, puerum elegantem", un garçon précieux,[6] et Willy qui "Blackspot" delineavit "Londiniensem fastidiosissimum", un parfait swell londonien. Sed Willy in memorabilibus post mortem editis characterem "Marcelli" multo pellucidius patefecit:

Iste Marcellus modice improbus, magnopere paederastes erat: de hac re iactitabat. Olim dum suadebam, ne rixatores macellariosve furciferosve varios, quibus deliciabatur, quaesiverit sed (mares praeferens) ephebos graciliores delicatosque et pulchellos, 'Ratiocinare!' mihi respondet: 'haud dentiscalpii venatum eo' (Ce Marcel était un peu filou et énormément pédéraste. Il s'en vantait. Un jour que je lui déconseillais la fréquentation des apaches, garçons-bouchers et divers costauds dont il faisait ses délices, lui conseillant de leur préférer, puis qui'il voulait du masculin, des gosses encore gracieux d'une jolie sveltesse éphébique: Pensez-vous, me dit-il, je ne suis pas pour cure-dents).[7]

Ab anno 1906 Londinii habitavit ubi scriptores histrionesque aut homosexuales aut bisexuales frequentavit, Alfredum Douglas et Robertum Ross(fr) olim Anscharii Wilde amicos, Somerset Maugham, Franciscum Toye(en), Cosmo Gordon-Lennox. Cum hoc se ab anno 1911 ornatorem aedificiorum stylo Francico recentissimo proposuit, taberna nomine Décoration Moderne condito, bono successu. Francogallice his annis tam congeriem commentationum musicalium quam mythistorias eroticas edidit. Anno 1914 Franciam redire statuit: in exercitum receptus in Flandria militavit librosque breves nonnullos cum pictore Ioanne Aemilio Laboureur Namnetensi, quem iam apud Willy cognoverat, divulgari curavit.

Gastronomus et popinarius

Les Fréquentations de Maurice: mœurs de Londres (1912, pseudonymo Sidney Place): involucrum

Bello peracto Londinium rediit, ubi opus ornationis aedificiorum rursus suscipere temptabat: tabulas Modigliani, rasiones Laboureur, textilia Dufy, ornationes Poiret venditabat, sed emolumentis minimis.[8] Victu carens, librum praeceptorum culinariorum apud domum editorialem Heinemann proposuit: ita Simple French Cooking for English Homes ("Coquina Francica facilis in usum domorum Anglicorum") optimo successu anno 1923 divulgaverit, a pluribus amicis diurnariis laudatum. Recensionem dedit, citationibus fartam, inter alii plures "Penelope" diarii Aberdoniensis:

Illis praeceptis obtemperare possunt "qui bonam, qui mediocrem, qui nullam coquam habeant". Simplicissimis cibis aliquid insolitum praecepit (etiam carotis rapisque "lepiditatem iuventutis" postulat). Naturalem suam facetiam ubique ebullire sinit, iucundissime eo loco ubi risottum mandat: "In sartaginem libram oryza iacias. Ne laves. Ut faciem et manus et conscientiam tibi laves: ne oryzam usquam laves."[9]

Post duos fere annos cum consorte Alexandro Adair se coquum proposuit ad cenas privatas parandas: primum iussu Virginiae Woolf scriptricem Dorotheaeque Todd editricem libellorum Vogue operam dedit.[10]denuo affixo Restaurant Boulestin,[11] gerente Alexandro Adair. Boulestin insuper artem coquinariam docebat apud pantopolium Fortnum & Mason's.[12] Popinam ambo anno 1925 condiderunt ad plateam Leicestriensem(en), ornatoribus Clough Williams-Ellis et Allan Walton,[13] nomine Restaurant Français, sed a pluribus modo Francico chez Boulestin nuncupatam, archimagiro ab initio Bigorre Perpinianensi qui antea Lutetiae versabatur.[14][15] Anno 1926 exeunte ad Hortum Conventus(en) (Covent Garden) se removerunt sub novo nomine restaurant Boulestin, gerente ab anno 1933 Francisco Toye.[16] Novam popinam ornabant Ioannes Aemilius Laboureur, Maria Laurencin, Albertus Groult, textilibus Radulphi Dufy circumpositis.[17]

Carnes bubulae ovinaeque, cramum, butyrum ex Anglia proveniebant, sed holera, fructus, casei, coffeum e Francia per aëroplana importabantur. Media popina conspiciebatur lagena maxima spiritus vini anno 1869 nati, assiduam curam tam potionum quam ciborum satis monstrans. Libri Anglici Francogallicique a Boulestin scripti aderant. Fercula specialia enumerabantur "potagia rustica, frusta soleae modo Robin, astacus cum cramo e vino Portugallico, crispae Nicole, ova spongia Boulestin, anas Namnetensis(fr) e Chambertino, crispae Verlaine" (Potages paysans, Filets de sole Robin, Homard crème au porto, Crêpes Nicole, Omelette Boulestin, Nantais au Chambertin, Crêpes Verlaine). Crispae Suzette modo optimo ibi conficiebantur.[18] Crispae media mensa palam convivarum parabantur; etiam volatilia venaticia sicut rusticolae et anates media mensa dispertiebantur.[19]

Diurnarii popinam stylo Francico gestam et cenas modo Gallico paratas pretioque immodico sub aegide gastronomi celeberrimi praebitas cantabant. Frequentabant illustres et divitiores: Margarita Rhondda, libellorum Time and Tide editrix, cum collegis pluribus ab Winifred Holtby enumeratis:

Die Iovis prandio delicioso aderam apud Boulestin in popina subterranea prope Hortum Conventus, symposiarcha domina Rhondda, ut scriptores Time and Tide incurrerem. Convivabamur Rosa Macaulay, Sylvia Townsend Warner, Liliana Baylis(en) theatri Veteris Victorianae(en), Vera Brittain, Margarita West, E. M. Delafield egoque" (On Thursday I went to a most delightful lunch given at Boulestin’s, a French underground restaurant near Covent Garden, by Lady Rhondda, to meet contributors to Time and Tide. There were Rose Macaulay, Sylvia Townsend Warner ... Lillian Bayliss of the Old Vic, Vera, Margaret West, E.M. Delafield and me).[20]

Insuper frequentabant Georgius Bernardus Shaw, G. K. Chesterton,[21] Ivor Novello, Sergius Djagilev, Natalis Coward, Caecilius Beaton, qui "pulchellissimam Londinii popinam" nuncupavit,[22] Haroldus Nicolson, Sybilla Colefax,[23] Evan Morgan(en), Alfredus Noyes, Osbertus et Sacheverell Sitwell, Ivor Spencer-Churchill, Sybilla Cholmondeley, Baba de Faucigny-Lucinge, Andrea Spinelly(fr) (Spi),[24] Ian Fleming,[25] Die 7 Maii 1930 ipse Boulestin ad cenam apud popinam suam invitavit A. E. Housman et Grant Richards.[26]

His annis Boulestin libros plures de coquina et gastronomia divulgaverit, pictore saepe Laboureur, collaboratore nonnumquam Adair. Anno 1937 et usque in 1939 praecepta culinaria sua in serie televisifica BBC Cook's Night Out ("coqua tua exeunte") viva voce promulgavit, omnium primum ova spongia.[27] Hoc praeceptum necnon alia, ab eo programmatibus librisque divulgatis, celebria facta sunt, inter quae perna e cramo (jambon à la crème),[28] iecur vitellinum fornace coctum (foie de veau au four).[29]

Senectus

Aspects sentimentaux du front anglais (1916, pseudonymo Bertie Angle): involucrum

Villam rusticam cum consorte Adair iuxta Soorts-Hossegor in praefectura Landarum acquisiverat. Hac in villa ambo aestivare solebant, ibique bello mundano secundo subito incepto manebant, sed sub obsidione Germanorum Adair cives Anglicus anno 1940 Lutetiae incarceratus est. Boulestin cum eo Lutetiam petivit, ubi anno 1943 mortuus est.

Popina Londiniensis, hoc modo a dominis relicta, loco suo subterraneo supervixit. Ibi bello mundano II saeviente cenavit Alexander Waugh scriptor et gastronomus:

Apotheca vinorum excellentissima domini Boulestin intacta manebat. Ibi latuit grex lagenarum parvarum vini Rayne-Vigneau(fr) – anni nativitatis obliviscor. Statuimus cenam nostram neque vino Portugallico neque elixire quodam sed hac potione complere, quam sensim et sensualiter delibuimus.[30]

Popina Boulestin usque in annum 1994 a conditorum successoribus conducta est.

Scripta

Simple French Cooking for English Homes (1923): involucrum
Libri
  • 1899 (praefatore Willy) : Le Pacte: dialogue. Lutetiae: Société libre des gens de lettres
  • 1905 (interpres) : Max Beerbohm, L'Hypocrite sanctifié. Lutetiae: Mercure de France; de hoc libro
  • 1911 (cum Francisco Toye) : The Swing of the Pendulum. Londinii: Eveleigh Nash
  • 1912 : Tableaux de Londres (congeries commentationum). Lutetiae: Dorbon aîné
  • 1912 (pseudonymo Sidney Place) : Les Fréquentations de Maurice: mœurs de Londres. Lutetiae: Dorbon aîné
  • 1916 (pseudonymo Bertie Angle; pictore J.-E. Laboureur) : Aspects sentimentaux du front anglais. Lutetiae: Dorbon aîné Textus apud Gallica
  • 1916 (pictore J.-E. Laboureur) : Dans les Flandres britanniques. Lutetiae: Dorbon aîné; Textus
  • 1919 (praefator) : J.-E. Laboureur, Les Rouges et noirs. Ten sketches of the First Army concert party. Lutetiae: Plon et Louvain; de hoc libro
  • 1920 (pictore J.-E. Laboureur) : The New Keepsake for the Year 1921. Lutetiae: C. Bloch; Textus
  • 1923 : Simple French Cooking for English Homes. Londinii: Heinemann
    • impressio recentissima: Londinii: Quadrille Books, 2011
  • 1925 : A Second Helping: or, More Dishes for English Homes. Londinii: Heinemann; textus
  • 1925 : The Conduct of the Kitchen: How to Keep a Good Table for Sixteen Shillings a Week. Londinii: Heinemann
  • 1925 (praefator) : Nina Toye, A. H. Adair, Drinks—Long & Short. Londinii: Heinemann; Textus
    • versio Francogallica, interprete Philibert Le Huby [i.e. J.-E. Laboureur] : Petits et grands verres, choix des meilleurs cocktails. Lutetiae: Au Sans Pareil, 1927; Textus; de hoc libro; iterum
  • 1926 (editor) : Subtle Seasoning: a little book of recipes. Vigorniae: Lea and Perrins
  • 1928 (cum Suzanne Laboureur; pictore J.-E. Laboureur) : Petits et grands plats ou le Trésor des amateurs de vraie cuisine: Lutetiae: Au Sans Pareil
  • 1928 (praefator) : A. H. Adair, Dinners Long and Short. Londinii: Victor Gollancz De hoc libro
  • 1930 : À Londres, naguère ... Lutetiae: Fayard
  • 1930 (cum Jason Hill; pictore Cedric Morris) : Herbs, Salads, and Seasonings. Londinii: Heinemann
  • 1931 : What Shall We Have To-Day? 365 Recipes for All the Days of the Year. Londinii: Heinemann
  • 1932 (cum A. H. Adair) : Savouries and Hors-d'oeuvre: One Hundred & Twenty-Seven Ways of Preparing. Londinii: Heinemann
  • 1932 (cum A. H. Adair) : Potatoes: One Hundred & One Ways of Cooking. Londinii: Heinemann
  • 1932 (cum A. H. Adair) : Eggs: One Hundred & Twenty Ways of Cooking. Londinii: Heinemann
  • 1933 : What Shall We Have to Drink? Londinii: Heinemann
  • 1934 (pictore J.-E. Laboureur) : Having Crossed the Channel: an account of travel on the Continent, with special reference to food and cooking.. Londinii: Heinemann
  • 1935 : The Evening Standard Book of Menus. Londinii: Heinemann
  • 1936 : Myself, My Two Countries ... Londinii: Cassell
  • 1937 (pictore J.-E. Laboureur) : The Finer Cooking, or, Dishes for Parties. 2 voll. Londinii: Cassell
  • 1945 : Paris-Londres aux environs de 1900; souvenirs inédits. Lutetiae: Fayard
  • 1952 (edd. Elvia Firuski, Maurice Firuski) : The Best of Boulestin. Lodinii: Heinemann
  • 1971 (editore anonymo) : Recipes of Boulestin: selected from 'The best of Boulestin', 'Simple French cooking for English homes', 'The "Evening Standard" book of menus', 'What shall we have today?' and 'A second helping'. Londinii: Heinemann; exemplar mutuabile impressionis recentioris
Commentationes selectae
  • 1910 : "Le socialisme dans l'Or du Rhin" in Revue musicale de la Société internationale de musique
  • 1911 : "Le couronnement des rois d'Angleterre" in Revue musicale de la Société internationale de musique (Maio 1911)
  • 1911 : "Le problématique avenir de l'opéra en Angleterre" in Revue musicale de la Société internationale de musique (Martio 1911)
  • 1912 : "La Flûte enchantée à Cambridge" in Revue musicale de la Société internationale de musique (Martio 1912)
  • 1913 : "Post Georgian" in The Blue Review (Iulio 1913)[31]
  • 1914 : "Les post-elgariens ou la jeune école anglaise" inRevue musicale de la Société internationale de musique (Ianuario 1914)
  • 1933 : "The Troubles of Tipping" in Daily Telegraph (25 Martii 1933)
Cinematographica et televisifica selecta
  • 1936 : "A Party Dish" ("ferculum convivale": pellicula brevis sine voce) situs difficilis
  • 1937 : Marcellus Boulestin, "How To Make an Omelette" ("quomodo ova spongia parantur") e serie BBC Cook's Night Out (Ianuario 1937)

Notae

  1. ↑ "14 Aprilis 1877": sic Vicipaedia Francogallica, fonte primario citato
  2. ↑ Doctor of the Philosophy of the Table, Culinary Ambassador to the English, intelligent gentleman of France, man of the world, essayist of vigor and charm, and proprietor of the best restaurant in London.
  3. ↑ Moffat (1932) fide Sidney (2014); De Donaldo Moffat
  4. ↑ In the storeroom next to the kitchen were a long table and shelves always covered with all sorts of provisions; large earthenware jars full of confits of pork and goose, a small barrel where vinegar slowly matured, a bowl where honey oozed out of the comb, jams, preserves of sorrel and of tomatoes, and odd bottles with grapes and cherries marinating in brandy ... sacks of haricot beans, of potatoes; eggs, each one carefully dated in pencil.... peaches, pears hollowed out by a bird or a wasp, figs that had fallen of their own accord ... It is no doubt the remembrance of these early days which makes me despise and dislike all primeurs, the fruit artificially grown, gathered too early and expensively sent, wrapped in cotton wool, to "smart" restaurants.Myself (1936) fide Bustillos (2016)
  5. ↑ Aged and tired, having drinks at the Grand Café: fide Bustillos (2016)
  6. ↑ Colette, Minne (1904) fide Bustillos (2016)
  7. ↑ Willy, Indiscrétions et commentaires sur les "Claudine" (1962) fide Bustillos (2016). De iuvenibus "apache" Parisiensibus istius temporis vide Messy Nessy
  8. ↑ Sidney (2014)
  9. ↑ The recipes he gives are within the reach of "people who have a good cook, those who have a plain one, and those who have not got one at all" ... To the simplest comestible he adds something unusual — even carrots and turnips are requested to present the "charm of youth"! — while his spontaneous humour bubbles out everywhere, nowhere more happily than in this: — To make a risotto, "Put into the frying-pan a pound of rice. Do not wash it. Wash your face, wash your hands, wash your conscience, but do not wash the rice" (Aberdeen Press and Journal [Martio 1925] fide Bustillos (2016))
  10. ↑ Bustillos (2016)
  11. ↑ Old Foodie (2008)
  12. ↑ Old Foodie (2008)
  13. ↑ Old Foodie (2008); O'Brien (n.d.)
  14. ↑ M. Evelyn, "London's Famous Chefs" in Edinburgh Evening News (16 Iunii 1925) p. 3
  15. ↑ Old Foodie (2008); Gazette de Bayonne (1943); Lyon (2023)
  16. ↑ "Mr. Francis Toye" in The Times (16 Octobris 1964) fide Lyon (2023) nota 36
  17. ↑ Michel Rapoport, "The London French from the Belle Epoque to the end of the inter-war period (1880–1939)" in Debra Kelly, Martyn Cornick, A history of the French in London: liberty, equality, opportunity (Londinii: Institute of Historical Research, 2013) pp. 241-280, vide p. 260
  18. ↑ Buring (1935)
  19. ↑ "The Boulestin" in Eileen Hooton-Smith, The Restaurants of London (Londinii: Knopf, 1928) pp. 46-49; de hoc libro
  20. ↑ Winifred Holtby, Letters to a Friend (1937) p. 435; prandium die 9 Decembris 1926 celebratum fide O'Brien (n.d.)
  21. ↑ O'Brien (n.d.)
  22. ↑ Bustillos (2016)
  23. ↑ Manuel Canovas
  24. ↑ Lyon (2023) pp. 40-43 cum notis subiunctis
  25. ↑ Christian Destremau, Ian Fleming (2020) (Fragmenta apud Google Books)
  26. ↑ Grant Richards, Housman 1897–1936 (Novi Eboraci: Oxford University Press, 1942) pp. 251-254
  27. ↑ How To Make an Omelette (1937)
  28. ↑ What (1931); Sidney (2014)
  29. ↑ Second (1925); The Aesthete Cooks
  30. ↑ Alec Waugh, Wines and Spirits (Time-Life Books, 1975) textus e versione Francogallica Latine versus
  31. ↑ Vide Grace Brockington

Bibliographia

  • Brigid Allen, "Boulestin, (Xavier) Marcel (1878–1943)" in Oxford Dictionary of National Biography edd. H. C. G. Matthew, Brian Harrison (Oxonii: Oxford University Press, 2004) Situs venalis
  • Leo Buring, "Notes of a Gourmet: Crepes Suzette chez Boulestin" in The Home (1 Novembris 1935)
  • Elizabeth David, "Having Crossed the Channel: the work of X. Marcel Boulestin" in Wine and Food (vere 1965); reimpressa in Elizabeth David, An Omelette and a Glass of Wine (1984)
  • Phil Lyon, "Turning Point: Marcel Boulestin's 1923 Simple French Cooking for English Homes" in Petits Propos Culinaires no. 125 (2023) pp. 28-52
  • Donald Moffat, "Attention of Monsieur X. Marcel Boulestin" in New Yorker (21 Octobris 1932) Situs venalis
  • Michael Parkin, A Salute to Marcel Boulestin & Jean-Emile Laboureur: an exhibition of artists associated with the Restaurant Boulestin. Londinii: Michael Parkin Fine Art, 1981; de hoc libro
  • S., "Souvenirs sur X. Marcel Boulestin" in Gazette de Bayonne (27 Septembris 1943)

Nexus externi

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