Pumari Chhish (Urdu: پماری چش), is a group of peaks in the Shimshal Valley, a village of the Karakoramrange. The central peak,(or Pumarikish, Peak 11) rises to 7,492m. It lies about 4 km east of Khunyang Chhish, in the heart of the Hispar, north of the Hispar Glacier.
Other peaks in the group include Pumari Chhish South and Pumari Chhish East. Pumari Chhish South lies about 1 km (0.6 mi) to the southeast of the main summit of Pumari Chhish and reaches 7,350 m (24,110 ft).[1] Pumari Chhish East reaches 6,850 m high and is located off the Hispar Glacier.[2]
Climbing History
Pumari Chhish
Pumari Chhish was first attempted by an Austrian group in 1974, who failed to climb or bypass the Yazghil Glacier on the north side of the peak. In 1979, a Japanese group from the Hokkaido Alpine Association and Pakistani Army officer of 29 signal succeeded in climbing the mountain via a long route starting from the Khunyang Glacier, well to the west of the peak. They first had to cross a significant col to access the upper Yazghil Glacier; they then ascended the north ridge of Pumari Chhish.[3]
According to the Himalayan Index,[4] there have been no other successful ascents of Pumari Chhish.
Pumari Chhish South
After two unsuccessful attempts on this peak in 1999 and 2000 by Julie-Ann Clyma and Roger Payne,[5] it was first climbed on June 12, 2007, by Yannick Graziani and Christian Trommsdorff. Among first ascents of peaks over 7000 metres, their 2,700 m (8,900 ft) climb was highly technical (they rate it ABO 5.10 M6 A1). They made the ascent in pure alpine style over six days. Their achievement earned them the lead article in the 2008 American Alpine Journal.[5]
Pumari Chhish East
The first successful ascent of Pumari Chhish East was via the south face on 29 June 2022.[2] The ascent was made by Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede and Jérôme Sullivan via a direct route they named The Crystal Ship and graded M7, 6b,A2, 1600m.[2] The successful climb was awarded one of the 2023 Piolets d'Or.[6][7]
Before the successful ascent, there had only been three previous attempts to climb this peak.[8][9]
References
^Jerzy Wala, Orographical Sketch Map of the Karakoram (1:250,000), Sheet 1, Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, 1990.
