Overall administration is by the National Park Service, coordinating with state, county, municipal, and university agencies. The Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area preserves one of the best examples of a Mediterranean climateecosystem in the world. It also protects one of the highest densities of archaeological resources in any mountain range in the world.[4]
In size the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area is the largest urban national park in the United States and the largest urban national park in the world.[5][6][7][8]
The Woolsey Fire in November 2018 burned 83% of all National Park Service land in the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area.[9]
Westward Beach at Point Dume"Balance Rock" near the Mishe Mokwa TrailKing Gillette Ranch ParkMountain lion kitten P-54, born in early 2017 in the SMMNRA
Park history
The movement to preserve the Santa Monica Mountains has a long tradition which is frequently overlooked by historians who often focus exclusively on the environmental movement of the 1960s and 1970s which culminated with the establishment of the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area in 1978.[10]
Griffith Park
The first area in the Santa Monica Mountains set aside for public use was Griffith Park which was donated to the city of Los Angeles by Griffith J. Griffith in 1896.
National Forest
During the first decade of the twentieth century, Frederick H. Rindge made several attempts to create a forest reserve in the Santa Monica Mountains. These reserves were precursors to national forests. In 1902 California's State Mining Bureau examined the area being considered for the establishment of a forest reserve. The resulting report was sent to Washington where the proposal for a reserve was denied.[11]
In 1907 an application was submitted to the Secretary of the Interior requesting that at least 70,000 acres (28,000 ha) in the mountains be designated a forest reserve.[12] This time state mineralogist Lewis E. Aubury opposed the venture. He wrote the L.A. Time newspaper stating, "I believe that the lands embraced in the Malibu and Santa Monica districts should not be included in a forest reserve…I shall at once take the matter up with Gifford Pinchot, forester, Washington, D.C., and endeavor to ascertain his views on the subject, and further protest against the creation of this proposed reserve".[13] Days later the U. S. Forest Service advised Aubury that it was highly improbable that a forest reserve would be created owing to local opposition and the small amount of public land still remaining in the Santa Monica Mountains.[11]
Whitestone National Park
Limestone deposits were discovered in the mountains behind Pacific Palisades in 1925 which led to a lengthy battle between wealthy home owners of the area and land developers.[14] The quarry site was in Traylor Canyon, three miles inland from the sea, between Santa Ynez and Temescal Canyons.[15]Alphonzo Bell Sr. was the real estate developer behind the quarry scheme while local opposition was led by Sylvia Morrison, who championed the preservation of the area's natural beauty.
After much criticism of his original plan, Bell offered a new proposal. Using a new process, he would have the rock pulverized, mixed with water, and pumped via a buried pipeline to the mouth of Santa Ynez Canyon. The pipeline would continue from there along the ocean floor to an offshore buoy where it would be load on board a waiting ship.[16] Criticism of the plan grew and eventually garnered the ire of local resident Will Rogers who parodied the plan on the front page of the L.A. Times.[17] The debate raged citywide with such notable public figures as William Mulholland coming to Bell's defense.
In an attempt to sway public opinion, Bell urged local residents to take company-sponsored fieldtrips, on foot and on horseback, to the quarry to see the site for themselves. Among the people who took these trips was Sylvia Morrison, who had been an early leader of environmental concerns. She was among the visitors who scrambled up the limestone cliffs on ladders and hiked and rode on horseback through the chaparral and came away thrilled with the natural beauty of the canyons. "Taking a cue from Yellowstone National Park, Morrison urged the establishment of Whitestone National Park in the Santa Monica Mountains, named after the by-now infamous cliffs."[18]
Fredrick Law Olmsted
In 1930 Frederick Law Olmsted Jr., a lifelong advocate of national parks and considered by many as the designer of the California State Parks system, proposed a network of parks, beaches, playgrounds, and forests to promote the social, economic, and environmental vitality of Los Angeles.[19] Olmsted also advocated for public ownership of at least 10,000 acres (4,000 ha) of the most scenic beach and mountain landscapes between Topanga and Point Dume.[20] However, the Olmsted report was essentially killed – only 200 copies were printed – due mainly to civic leaders who put politics ahead of public space.[19]
Rindge bankruptcy
After lengthy court battles to preserve her estate, May Rindge (widow of Frederick H. Rindge) lost control of her lands and was forced into bankruptcy in 1938. A proposal to establish a large park was considered in exchange for the cancellation of $1.1 million in unpaid taxes.[21] However, Los Angeles County refused the offer, thus missing the opportunity to acquire 17,000 acres of park lands.[22]
Will Rogers State Historic Park
Will Rogers State Historic Park was created in 1944 marking the establishment of the first state park in the Santa Monica Mountains and the first public land created in the mountains since Griffith Park in 1896. It now adjoins Topanga State Park on its northeast side.
Toyon National Park
In the 1960s and 70s, and possible as early of the 1950s, another campaign was undertaken to preserve the Santa Monica Mountains. Several proposals went before the U.S. Congress which called for the creation of Toyon National Park, referring to a dominant chaparral plant found in the area.
The legislative history of Toyon National Park dates back to 1971 when Representative Alphonzo Bell Jr. first introduced a bill in the Congress.[23]
Point Mugu State Park was the first of three large, rural state parks in the Santa Monica Mountains was established in 1967, when the State Division of Beaches and Parks, the forerunner of California State Parks, acquired title to 6,700 acres (2,700 ha) of the Broome Ranch for $15.1 million.[24] This property was the first acquisition for Point Mugu State Park, and was part of the 19th century Mexican Rancho Guadalasca. 5,800 acres (2,300 ha) was purchased from Richard E. Danielson in 1972 for $2.1 million, nearly doubling the park's acreage.[25] This property is situated northeast of the park's original 6,700 acres (2,700 ha) and consisted of mostly backcountry. A remaining 850-acre parcel (340 ha) which adjoined this property was purchased by the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area from Danielson in 1980, becoming Rancho Sierra Vista open space park.
In the heart of the Santa Monica Mountains, the 20th Century Fox Movie Ranch, commonly called Century Ranch, was a 2,700-acre land acquisition of what would become Malibu Creek State Park. It was purchased by the State of California in 1974 for $4.8 million. Reagan Ranch, a 120-acre property on the west and formerly owned by Ronald Reagan, was included in the original Century Ranch purchase.[31] The Hope Ranch, owned by entertainer Bob Hope and which abutted Century Ranch, was purchased in 1975 for $4.1 million.[31] In 1976 the State Parks and Recreation Commission adopted a compromise on the classification of the Century Ranch property, and officially named it Malibu Creek State Park.[31]
Establishment of the National Recreation Area
The Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area was established November 10, 1978, after a long campaign for preservation of the Santa Monica Mountains by local and regional conservationists. Susan B. Nelson helped organize "Friends of the Santa Monica Mountains, Parks and Seashore" in 1964 and was known as the mother of the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area.[32] In 1988 though, she was concerned about the political push to end federal land purchases encouraged by Los Angeles County developers that preferred the land stay available for home building. She was encouraged though that neighboring cities in Ventura County were supportive of park expansion.[33]
The strategy has been to grow SMMNRA by 'mosaic pieces' linking critical habitats, saving unique areas, and expanding existing parks. The Santa Monica Mountains Conservancy, a California state agency, was created in 1980 for the acquisition of land for preservation as open space, for wildlife and California native plantshabitat preserves, and for public recreation activities.[34][35]
One of the first land acquisitions was Rancho Sierra Vista in 1980 which is reputed to be one of the last intact ranches from the first half of the twentieth century in the Santa Monica Mountains.
Continuing land acquisitions
In 1980 the Paramount Movie Ranch was acquired in Agoura Hills, and is the present day Paramount Ranch Park. The National Park Service revitalized the old movie ranch, and it is again used for movie and television productions, and is open for public recreation and events.[36]
Entertainer and land speculator Bob Hope created controversy in the early 1990s when he proposed to sell 5,900 acres (2,400 ha) of land in the Corral Canyon area in the Santa Monicas to the federal government in exchange for 59 acres (24 ha) of federal parkland in the nearby Cheeseboro Canyon section of Santa Monica Mountains NRA in the Simi Hills, in order to build an access road to a new 'Jordan Ranch' golf course and housing development.[37] The land swap was never completed, the Jordan Ranch became the Palo Commado section of the Cheeseboro Canyon / Palo Comado Canyon Open Space parks. Most of the land for the 1,000 acres (400 ha) Corral Canyon Park was finally donated by Bob Hope.[38]
The highly visible hills with undeveloped ranch land adjacent to the junction of U.S. Route 101 and Las Virgenes Road in western Calabasas have several viewsheds now protected from development. They also serve as an unofficial gateway to the central Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area and its visitor center on Las Virgenes Road at King Gillette Ranch.[40] On the southeastern side the land was formerly owned by Bob Hope, acquired by the SMM Conservancy in 2010, and added to the Las Virgenes View Park in the Santa Monica Mountains NRA.[41] The viewshed on the northwestern side of the junction, formerly owned by Fred Sands, was acquired in 2010 and protected in the 200 acres (81 ha) Zev Yaroslavsky Las Virgenes Highlands Park.[42][40] Both preserve open space along the Ventura Freeway (101) between the San Fernando and the Conejo Valleys.[43] The under construction Wallis Annenberg Wildlife Crossing is a vegetated overpass spanning the Ventura Freeway and Agoura Road at Liberty Canyon in Agoura Hills.[44]
Rim of the Valley Trail Corridor Study
The Rim of the Valley Corridor Special Resource Study is being conducted by the National Park Service, and generally includes the mountains encircling the San Fernando, La Crescenta, Santa Clarita, Simi, and Conejo Valleys in Los Angeles and Ventura Counties.[45][46][47][48] The SMMNRA is part of the Rim of the Valley Trail Corridor planning process, and several alternatives include a Rim of the Valley a SMMNRA boundary adjustment (of an approximately 173,000-acre or 313,000 acre addition).[46] The Rim of the Valley Trail is a plan in progress for connecting the four valleys with the parklands surrounding them.[49][50][51][52]
Santa Monica Mountains Fund (SAMO Fund) is dedicated to the mission of preserving, protecting, and enhancing the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area (SMMNRA). Their mission encompasses a commitment to safeguarding the unique ecosystem of the area, fostering a deep connection between people and nature, and supporting the National Park Service in its endeavors. This includes a focus on youth education, scientific research, improvement of park facilities, community stewardship, and the preservation of indigenous cultural resources. Their vision is to see the Santa Monica Mountains thrive as a biodiverse and resilient natural landscape.
Santa Monica Mountains Fund (SAMO Fund) has a rich history that dates back to its establishment in 1988, emerging as a pivotal force in the conservation and appreciation of the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area (SMMNRA). This journey began with the federal designation of the SMMNRA in 1978, a milestone achieved after two decades of dedicated advocacy by volunteer activists for the protection of the Santa Monica Mountains' wildlands and natural resources. SAMO Fund was created to support and amplify these conservation efforts. As the official philanthropic partner of the National Park Service in the region, the Fund has played a crucial role in preserving the unique ecosystem and cultural heritage of this coastal mountain range, which spans across Los Angeles and Ventura counties. Over the years, SAMO Fund has grown in scope and impact, now overseeing a range of programs from youth education and scientific research to the maintenance of park facilities and trails. Notably, the Fund has been instrumental in engaging the community in stewardship activities and in leading initiatives to protect the natural and cultural resources of the indigenous populations in the area. Today, SAMO Fund stands as a testament to the power of community engagement and strategic partnerships in fostering a sustainable coexistence between urban development and natural preservation, making the SMMNRA a cherished destination for millions of visitors each year.
The registered offices of SAMO Fund are shared with the SMMNRA NPS headquarters in Thousand Oaks, California.
In 2018, the Woolsey Fire burned through 88% of the federal parkland resulting in trails being closed for months.[53] The fire, which was three times larger than the biggest fire ever before in the mountains, burned over 40% of the natural area in the Santa Monicas.[54] The fire created a challenge to native plants as black mustard with bright yellow flowers quickly established itself as a wet winter followed the fire.[55] The mustard plants will also provide fuel for the next fires.[56] A restoration plan was developed to plant 100,000 trees, shrubs and grasses of 25 different species.[57]
Superintendents
Robert Chandler, 1979–1982
Daniel Kuehn, 1983–1988
William Webb (Acting Superintendent), 1988–1989
David Gackenbach, 1989–1995
Arthur Eck, 1995–2002
Woody Smeck, 2002–2012
David Szymanski, 2012–2024
Jody Lyle, 2024–present
Cultural resources
In terms of cultural heritage, the Santa Monica Mountains boast a rich history of continuous human occupation dating back more than 10,000 years[4] and contain many nationally significant prehistoric and historic sites.[58] More than 1,000 archaeological sites are in the boundary of the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area, making it one of the highest densities of archaeological resources found in any mountain range in the world.[59] There are twenty-six known Chumashpictograph sites with the national recreation area, all sacred to traditional Native American Indians, and include some that are among the most spectacular found anywhere.[60] These pictographs – along with other sites – have been described by the National Park Service as "unique and a significant world heritage".[61]
Nearly every major prehistoric and historic theme associated with human interaction and development of the western United States is represented within the park from the early hunters and gathers, to Native American Indian cultures, the Spanish mission and rancho periods, and the American homestead era. Park activist Susan Nelson was instrumental in pushing for an inventory of the flora and fauna of the park and the Native American archeological resources.[32]
The rich tapestry of the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area (SMMNRA) is woven from diverse historical strands, notably during the Spanish Mission period, setting the stage for Rancho Sierra Vista/Satwiwa's unique identity. This area, marked by ranch structures and a variety of grasses introduced over centuries of ranching, alongside native plants, mirrors the landscape once inhabited by the Chumash Indians.
The discovery of over 150 archaeological sites evidences both transient and permanent Native American settlements, with a 2014 find of glass beads suggesting late 1700s Spanish colonial contact. The area witnessed the explorations of the Portola Expedition and was traversed by Juan Bautista de Anza, whose journey is commemorated by the Juan Bautista de Anza National Historic Trail through Cheeseboro & Palo Comado Canyons and Rancho Sierra Vista.
The narrative extends from the prehistoric period, through the Rancho period, and into the eras of American settlement. The transition from the Rancho period to the American period in California marked a significant turning point in the region's history. Following the Mexican–American War, the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo in 1848 ceded California to the United States. This shift brought profound changes to the social, economic, and legal landscapes of California. The vast tracts of land once managed as ranchos under Mexican land grants were increasingly subdivided and sold to new American settlers. The introduction of American legal and political systems transformed property rights and land ownership, leading to disputes, and often displacing the Californio landowners who had thrived during the Rancho era.
A significant part of the American population moving west included individuals who were able to escape from enslavement, or post-1865, formerly enslaved individuals. These people came West for the opportunity to build a new society, and there are some incredible examples of success whose histories have not been told. For example, John Ballard, a Black pioneer from Kentucky, made a significant mark on Los Angeles after arriving in 1859 and later as a homesteader in the Santa Monica Mountains.
The story begins with John Ballard, a courageous soul who ventured from Kentucky to Los Angeles in 1859, seeking a better life amidst the tumultuous landscape of post-Civil War America. In the face of systemic racism and adversity, John found solace and opportunity in the rugged terrain of the Santa Monica Mountains, where he established a homestead that would become a beacon of hope for generations to come.
Against the backdrop of social upheaval and racial injustice, John and his family carved out a life of dignity and resilience on Ballard Mountain, formerly called "racial epithet" Head Mountain. Despite facing discrimination and hardship, they nurtured the land, cultivated community, and left an indelible mark on the landscape, serving as pioneers in the fight for equality and justice.
The renaming of Ballard Mountain in 2010 stands as a testament to the family's enduring legacy and the ongoing efforts to honor their contributions to the region's cultural heritage. Today, Ballard Mountain serves as a symbol of resilience and empowerment, a sacred site where the stories of the past are cherished and celebrated as part of our collective identity and heritage.
Nestled within the picturesque Santa Monica Mountains lies Paramount Ranch, a site of profound historical significance that serves as a window into the golden age of Hollywood. This iconic landmark holds the storied legacy of Paramount Pictures Studios, whose productions have left an indelible mark on American cinema.
In 2018, the Woolsey Fire ravaged through the Santa Monica Mountains, leaving Paramount Ranch, a beacon of cinematic history, severely damaged. The devastation impacted not just the physical structures but also the heritage and cultural memory encapsulated within the ranch.
The story of Paramount Ranch begins in the early 20th century when the studio purchased the land as a scenic backdrop for countless films and television shows. Against the backdrop of bustling film sets and bustling production crews, Paramount Ranch became synonymous with the magic of Hollywood, hosting iconic Westerns, dramas, and comedies that captured the hearts and imaginations of audiences around the world.
The cultural significance of the Santa Monica Mountains extends beyond prehistory to encompass the Spanish mission and rancho periods, the American homestead era, and the modern-day contributions of diverse communities.
The Anthony C. Beilenson Interagency Visitor Center at King Gillette Ranch was opened in June 2012, and is operated by four partner agencies: National Park Service, California State Parks, Santa Monica Conservancy, Mountains Recreation and Conservation Authority. It is located at 26876 Mulholland Highway, Calabasas, California, 91302.
The Satwiwa Native American Indian Culture Center is the only site in the National Park Service dedicated to the past, present, and future of all Indian cultures. A Native American guest-host or a park ranger is on hand to answer questions from 9am to 5pm on Saturdays and Sundays. Native American workshops, programs, and art shows occur throughout the year. Satwiwa means "bluff" in the Chumash language and refers to the cliffs of Boney Mountain which can be seen from Satwiwa. The center is located at Rancho Sierra Vista in Newbury Park. Main Entrance cross street is Via Goleta and Potrero Road.
The main headquarters for the park is located at 401 West Hillcrest Drive, Thousand Oaks 91360.[63]
Recreational opportunities abound, including biking, birding, land-based whale watching, camping, hiking, and horseback riding and rock climbing The Backbone Trail runs for nearly 70 miles (110 km) across the Santa Monica Mountains between Will Rogers State Park and Point Mugu State Park and is nearly complete from end to end. Channel Islands National Park lies in the Pacific Ocean directly to the west.
Partners
The following list of park partners and public parklands represents a collaboration of city, county, and state agencies as well as other organizations who work together to support the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area.
Allied Artists Santa Monica Mountains
Cold Creek Docents
City of Malibu Parks & Recreation Dept
The Children's Nature Institute
California Native Plant Society
Concerned Off-Road Bicyclists Association
Conejo Recreation & Park District
Coastwalk California
Friends of Runyon Canyon
Los Angeles County Recreation & Parks Dept
L.A. Chapter of the North American Butterfly Association
Los Angeles Audubon Society
Malibu Creek Docents
Malibu Lagoon Museum Docents
Mountains Recreation & Conservation Authority
Mountains Restoration Trust
Nature Bridge
The Nature of Wildworks
Resource Conservation District of the Santa Monica Mtns
Sierra Club
San Fernando Valley Audubon Society
San Fernando Valley Gourd Patch
Santa Monica Bay Audubon Society
Santa Monica Mountains Conservancy
Santa Monica Mountains Fund (Official Partner to the NPS)
^ abNational Park Service, Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area: Statement of National Significance, ca. 2000, page 4
^White, Mel (2009). Complete National Parks of the United States. National Geographic Books. Page 405. ISBN9781426205279.
^Schreiner, Casey (2016). Day Hiking Los Angeles: City Parks / Santa Monica Mountains / San Gabriel Mountains. Page: Introduction. Mountaineers Books. ISBN9781680510096.
^Vlahides, John A. and Tullan Spitz (2004). Coastal California. Lonely Planet. Page 162. ISBN9781740594684.
^ abRobert Garcia, et al, Free the Beach! Public Access, Equal Justice, and the California Coast, Center for Law in the Public Interest, April 2005, 6–7
^Mike Davis, "Let Malibu Burn: A Political History of the Fire Coast", L.A. Weekly, 1996
^"Mrs. May Rindge loses control of great rancho", L.A. Times, June 30, 1938, A1
^Mike Davis, "Let Malibu Burn: A Political History of the Fire Coast", L.A. Weekly, 1996, page 3
^Skip Ferderber, "U.S. will hear 100,000 acre park proposal," Los Angeles Times, June 13, 1974, page WS1
^"Point Mugu Park Land Acquired," Los Angeles Times, March 5, 1967, page H6.
^"Point Mugu Park Addition OKd," San Diego Union, March 12, 1972, page 17.
^California, California State Parks, State of. "Topanga State Park General Plan". CA State Parks. Archived from the original on December 20, 2017. Retrieved April 2, 2018.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link)
^California, California State Parks, State of. "Topanga SP". CA State Parks. Archived from the original on March 9, 2018. Retrieved April 2, 2018.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link)
^ abcRobert A. Jones, "Century Ranch gets Park Status in Compromise," Los Angeles Times, January 10, 1976, page B1.
^"Archived copy"(PDF). Archived(PDF) from the original on March 3, 2016. Retrieved December 28, 2014.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: archived copy as title (link) rimofthevalleytrail-master plan January 6, 2010
^"Lamountains"(PDF). Archived(PDF) from the original on September 30, 2010. Retrieved June 10, 2010. www.lamountains
^"Parks | LAMountains.com". Archived from the original on September 28, 2007. Retrieved September 3, 2007. -access date: September 6, 2010 Peter Strauss Ranch Park
^"Parks | LAMountains.com". Archived from the original on July 3, 2010. Retrieved June 10, 2010. -access date: September 6, 2010 Rocky Oaks Park
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