Nœud de Machard

Nœud de Machard
Autres noms
Nœud français
ABoK
#1762
Catégorie
Domaine
Alpinisme, Escalade, Spéléologie
Voisins

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Nœud de Machard simple (autour de la corde), réalisé avec un anneau de cordelette reliée par un nœud de pêcheur double (à gauche) et les boucles prises dans un mousqueton
Nœud de Machard français.

Le nœud de Machard est un nœud autobloquant utilisé en escalade, en alpinisme, en spéléologie et par certains cordistes pour réaliser un ancrage sur une corde. On distingue le nœud de Machard simple (ou bidirectionnel), du nœud de Machard tressé et du nœud de Machard français (aussi appelé simplement nœud français). Le nœud simple a été inventé en 1961 par le grimpeur marseillais Serge Machard (1945-1963)[1].

Description

Nœud de Machard simple

Ce nœud est autobloquant bidirectionnel, c'est-à-dire qu'une tension d'une part ou de l'autre de la corde provoquera le blocage[2].

Nœud de Machard tressé

Ce nœud est autobloquant unidirectionnel, il permet un montage et un déblocage facile. Il n'est par contre pas efficace sur corde gelée[2].

Nœud de Machard français

Ce nœud est autobloquant unidirectionnel. Sa réalisation est semblable à celle du machard simple, mais l'une des boucles (la boucle distale, dans le sens bloqué) est passée dans l'autre avant d'être, seule, reliée à un mousqueton. Il bloque plus efficacement que le machard simple sur corde gelée, et est donc utilisé couramment en alpinisme.

Utilisations

Ce nœud est utilisé en alpinisme pour l'assurage, la remontée sur corde, ou la réalisation de mouflages.

Notes et références

  1. ↑ Eric Vola, « Le nœud Machard et son histoire », site du CAF-Marseille, 2015
  2. ↑ a et b FFME - fiches techniques d'escalade

Voir aussi

Bibliographie

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