Standard route from north, mainly identical with Mallory's route in 1924; high camps on c.7700 m and 8300 m (indicated by two triangles), present day camp on 8300 m is located a bit further west (for general reference, the route's topographic map and elevation profile can be found here).
Navy blue line
Zakharov Couloir.
Light blue line
Messner's traverse from north ridge to Norton Couloir in 1980 ("Everest Solo by Fair Means") w/o O2.
Red line
Great Couloir or Norton Couloir.
Purple line
Complete northeast ridge with Three Pinnacles; Japanese route to the top. Climbed before by Russell Brice & Comp., but only the purple-marked part of the ridge, without going to the summit; descent via standard route.
2nd Pinnacle, resting place of Peter Boardman (+1982) in 1992.
?
2nd step, base at 8605 m, c.30 m high, (difficulty: 5–9/10).
(a)
Point at ca. 8321 m, reached by George Ingle Finch with supplementary oxygen in 1922.
(b)
Point at 8572.8 m on the western side of the Couloir, reached by Edward Felix Norton 1924 without supplementary oxygen (Norton preferred climbing the wall rather than climbing the ridge).
(c)
Area left out by the Yugoslavian party on their "complete West Ridge" ascent in 1979.
(d)
Difficult area that forced Americans, Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld, to traverse from the west ridge to the north face in 1963.