Jelena Behrend (born 1968[1]) is a Serbian-born American jewelry designer based out of the Lower East Side in New York City. Described as fashion forward by New York (magazine),[2] her hammered pieces have been seen on Hollywood celebrities and in feature films.[3]
Early life and education
Originally a writer from Serbia, Behrend transitioned to jewelry making when she emigrated to the United States in 1988.[4] Unable to pursue a career in writing, she turned to the visual arts to express herself. Having acquired some technical skills when she was younger, Behrend was able to train with a master jeweler in Los Angeles before returning to New York City to open her first studio on Catharine Street.[5] She began by making wholesale jewellery for large department stores and then decided to focus on more personal pieces in 1996. Prior to owning her current namesake studio, she co-owned the Oxygène Collectif atelier with former Wilhelmina model Maria Luisa Mosquera.[1][6][7]
Career
Her hand-forged, hand-hammered, and hand-carved jewelry is of Hollywood´s most memorable characters.[5] Behrend is known in fashion circles for her handmade gender blurring jewelry, featured in many magazine layouts[8][9] and also seen in the film The Girl With The Dragon Tattoo.[10] Her pieces have been worn by Madonna, Lenny Kravitz and Gwyneth Paltrow,[11] and are sold in high end boutiques or are custom made.[3] Relying on recycled metals, all of Behrend's work is hand forged using old tools. Her signature pieces are hammered chains that eschew mass-production and were inspired by the jewelry worn by European gypsies.[12][4]
In 2008 Behrend produced a storefront installation with the artist Lisa Kirk, designed for a special edition of the fragrance Revolution.[13][14]
Live FAST Magazine describes Behrend's pieces as being raw and edgy, stating that she "..holds true to the purest idea of an artisan".[15] Her technique also reveals a soulful approach to jewelry making. According to Behrend,"My biggest fear is that it is finished. You have to know when to stop. It has to still be alive."[5] In 2011, the Fitzroy Gallery located in Soho, Manhattan paid tribute to Behrend's methodology by exhibiting various videos, assemblages, and photographs regarding her work.[16]
