Purple - Portuguese in Persian Gulf in the 16th and 17th centuries. Main cities, ports and routes.
Sur (Arabic: صُوْر, romanized: Ṣūr) is the capital city of Ash Sharqiyah South Governorate,[1] and the former capital of Ash Sharqiyah Region in northeastern Oman, on the coast of the Gulf of Oman. It is located about 126 miles (203 km) southeast of the Omani capital Muscat. Historically, the city has been known for being an important destination point for sailors. Today, the sea still remains an important part of life in Sur.
Ibn Battuta commented on his visit to this "roadstead of a large village on the seashore."[2] In the 16th century, it was under Portuguese rule but was liberated by the Omani Imam Nasir ibn Murshid and underwent an economic revival, as a trade centre with India and East Africa. This continued until the mid-19th century, when the British outlawed the slave trade. The city was further ruined by the opening of the Suez Canal, which saw it lose trade with India.
Education
The main college in Sur is the Sur College of Applied Sciences. The college has over 4000 students and offers degrees in Business, Communication, Information Technology and Design and Applied Biotechnology. It is considered one of the better institutions of higher learning in Oman. The second college is Sur University College. There is an Indian school, Indian School Sur which offers classes up to Grade 12.[3]
The springs and aflajs represent tourist attractions in Sur, where there are some small springs in the mountainous areas. Additionally, there are 102 flowing channels used by the residents of the governorate for various livelihood purposes.
Freshwater streams from the high mountains intermingle with the saltwater of the sea at its edges, thanks to the proximity of the wadi to the sea. This proximity has contributed to creating the environmental diversity through which nature has crafted unique elements for this wadi, distinguishing it from the rest of the valleys in the Sultanate. A trip to Wadi Shab is considered an exciting adventure, involving boat crossings in certain areas and allowing visitors to walk on foot through the mountainous terrain.
Wadi Tiwi
Stretching over a distance of 36 km near the mountain village known as Mibam, Wadi Taywi is a fertile valley that passes through several agricultural villages cultivating palm trees and bananas. These villages overlook the towering mountains, and from certain locations, one can also catch a glimpse of the sea coast with its blue waters from an elevated perspective.
In the past, this city witnessed a rich Omani civilization, as it was the first capital of Oman before Islam. In the 13th century, it served as the main commercial port connecting the interior with the outside world. This city stands as a testament to a grand and ancient civilization, yet it has been forgotten in history and geography. Over time and due to harsh natural conditions, it has been transformed into scattered piles of stones that extend for kilometers along the shoreline. Old houses that collapsed on their inhabitants, defensive walls designed to fortify the city, and stories of an earthquake in the 14th century that led to its destruction, as well as the Portuguese invasion until their expulsion in the late 16th century AD, all contributed to shaping its history.
The history of the city of Qalhat dates back to the Bronze Age. Qalhat captured the world's attention at that time due to its status as the first capital of Oman before Islam. Its unique and distinguished location, along with its importance as an important city and prominent port, made it an attractive destination for travelers, explorers, and knowledge seekers.
Among the city's historical relics is the tomb of Bibi Maryam (Bibi meaning "the free woman"). It is said that she was an elderly woman who contributed to the construction of a mosque. Some historical sources suggest that she was a ruler of Qalhat during the reign of King Hormuz (Qutb al-Din Yamutahin). At the entrance of the tomb, there is an underground passage that leads to corridors beneath the tomb.
Sur is considered one of the oldest ports and maritime cities in the world. It is located on the eastern coast, approximately 310 km from the capital, Muscat, making it the largest city in the Eastern Governorate. The Portuguese occupied Sur in the 16th century until it was reclaimed during the reign of the Ya'aruba dynasty, thanks to Imam Nasser bin Murshid, in the 17th century AD. The city of Sur played a vital role in trade exchanges between Oman, East Africa, and India through its port, which served as an import and export station for various goods. It was also an important center for boat and ocean-crossing ship manufacturing, such as the "baghla" and "ghunja".
Sinesila Fort
It is believed that Sinesila Fort was built during the reign of Imam Nasser bin Murshid al-Ya'arubi. The fort played a significant role in repelling Portuguese attacks on the eastern Omani coasts. The fort is situated on an elevated land overlooking the village of Sinesila and consists of three circular towers and a fourth square tower, all of which increase in height as they were constructed. The fort was strategically used for defense due to its overseeing position on the coast of the Oman Sea. Sinesila Fort was restored during the period 1988-1989 AD.
Bilad Sur Fort
Bilad Sur Fort was constructed in the early 19th century. It served as a defensive structure to protect the town and its surrounding area, particularly from pirate attacks, due to its strategic location along the coast. Sur was an important maritime hub during this period, and the fort played a key role in defending Oman's interests. The architecture reflects traditional Omani fort designs, with thick walls and defensive towers.
Al-Ayjah Fort
Al Ayjah Fort, located near the coastal town of Sur, Oman, is a historic structure built to protect the region’s vital maritime activities. Situated at sea level, the fort overlooks the Arabian Sea and the lagoon that leads to Sur, serving as a coastal defense against foreign invasions and pirate threats during the 18th and 19th centuries. Its strategic placement allowed for easy monitoring of maritime traffic, making it crucial for the safety of Sur’s thriving shipbuilding and trading economy. Though not a large fort, its importance lies in its role in guarding the coastline. Like many Omani forts, Al Ayjah was likely restored during the late 20th century as part of national efforts to preserve the country’s historical architecture.
Fishing, weaving, blacksmithing, metalwork, palm weaving, carpentry, and traditional sweets production represent some of the important traditional crafts in Sur.
Among its traditional industries are the construction of traditional sailing ships. There is also the craftsmanship of Omani traditional doors with their intricate designs, as well as wooden windows. The crafting of daggers and both old and modern women's jewelry, as well as textile manufacturing like "izar" (a traditional cloth), "sabaya" (striped cloth), and Omani "hasar" (a type of headscarf), are also prominent traditional industries.
Notably, It is one of the famous cities in the Persian Gulf region in building wooden ships. Its historical location gives it the hand to monitor the Gulf of Oman and the Indian Ocean. the traditional sailing ships, in all their sizes and types, stand out as well. Many ships have been built in this city, like the sambuk and ghanjah.[8] They formerly went as far as China, India, Zanzibar, Iraq and many other countries. These vessels were also used in pearl fishing. The "ghunja" ship, in particular, has become a symbol of the Sur Governorate.
To preserve these inherited industries, the Ministry of Heritage and Culture in the governorate has established workshops for creating models of various types of old Omani ships.
Additionally, there is the craft of making Omani traditional doors with their distinct known patterns, along with wooden windows.
Ras Al Hadd Airport is located near the city of Sur in the South Al Sharqiyah Governorate. The airport provides tourists with an opportunity to avoid the long drive from Muscat and is part of the Sultanate's plan for tourism and environmental projects. The airport complements the efforts to develop the region and establish various tourist and environmental resorts along the eastern coast of the Sultanate, contributing to attracting and enriching tourism in this naturally diverse area.
The passenger terminal building at the airport covers an area of 5,600 square meters and has a capacity of accommodating half a million passengers annually. Each airport includes 4 aircraft bridges (jetways) and 7 check-in counters. The runway at each airport is 4 kilometers long and 75 meters wide, featuring a 37-meter high control tower. The first package for each airport includes the airport's road system and other service facilities. The second package includes the runway and taxiways.[9]
About 60 kilometers away from the city of Sur, on this coastline, the Ras Al Jinz Turtle Reserve is located. The green sea turtles seek refuge here, especially on the Ras Al Jinz Beach, a part of Ras Al Hadd, annually for nesting. The number of turtles nesting in this area is estimated to range between 6,000 and 13,000. The beach is also known for its coves and rocky formations along the shore, providing a sanctuary for various bird species.
Climate
Sur experiences a hot desert climate with very little rainfall and high temperatures. Because of its coastal location, Sur's night-time temperatures are never very low. There is no distinct wetter season, but March tends to be the wettest month, and September the driest.
Occasionally, Sur gets battered by cyclones. In 2007, Cyclone Gonu battered the city, and in 2010, Sur was hit by Cyclone Phet.[11][12]
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