Maurizio Zanolla

Maurizio Zanolla
Manolo in 2013
Personal information
NicknameManolo
Born (1958-02-16) 16 February 1958 (age 66)
Occupation(s)Mountain guide, rock climber
Websitewww.lasportiva.com/en/blog/ambassadors/manolo
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known for
  • First Italian 8b route
First ascents
  • Il mattino dei maghi (7c+, 1981)
  • Ultimo movimento (8b, 1986)
  • Il Maratoneta (8b+, 1987)
  • Malvasia (8b+, 1988)
  • The Dream (8c, 1991)
Updated on 7 April 2023

Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla (born in Feltre, 16 February 1958) is an Italian rock climber and mountaineer, and a pioneer of sport climbing in Italy during the 1980s and 1990s.[1]

Climbing career

Manolo came to international attention with his free solos in the Dolomites. In 1986, he became one of the first Italians to climb a route of grade 8b (5.13d) with l'Ultimo Movimento in Totoga in the Pale di San Martino. In 1992, he became one of the first Italians to free solo a grade 8a (5.13b) route, with Masala Dosa on the wall of "San Silvestro" in 1992. In 1981, with Alessandro Gogna, he climbed the Aguglia of Goloritzè in Sardinia, initiating the original development of the Selvaggio Blu trekking route.

Notable ascents

Manolo indoor climbing in Trento, in 2013

Redpoint

  • 9a+ (5.15a):
    • Bimbaluna – Saint-Loup (SUI) – 20 January 2008. Repeat of Fred Nicole's 2004 route; Manolo was almost 50 at the time and the hardest routes in the world were only at 9a+/b.[2]
  • 9a (5.14d):
    • Eternit – Vette Feltrine/Baule (ITA) – 24 August 2009. First ascent; continuation of O ce l'hai...[3]
    • Bain de Sang [fr] – Saint-Loup (SUI) – 2006. Repeat of Fred Nicole's 1993 route.[2]
  • 8c+ (5.14c):
    • Roby Present – Val Noana (ITA) – 24 March 2012. First ascent; dedicated to Roberto Bassi.[4]
  • 8c (5.14b):
    • Eroi Fragili – Val Noana (ITA) – 5 March 2011. First ascent
    • Stramonio – Val Noana (ITA) – 10 October 2010. First ascent
    • Thin ice – Terlago (ITA) – 25 April 2009. Route freed by Nico Favresse, 2007
    • El sior Favonio – Fonzaso (ITA) – 2006. First ascent
    • Diabloluna – Fonzaso (ITA) – 2006
    • L'Arte di Salire in Alto – Celva (ITA) – 2002. Rare repeat of Rolando Larcher's first-ever Italian 8c route from 1992.[5]
    • The Dream – Val Noana (ITA) – October 1991. First ascent
  • 8b+ (5.14a):
    • Appigli Ridicoli – Vette Feltrine/Baule (ITA) – 1990. First ascent; Manulo reclimbed it in 2001 without using his original drilled one-finger pocket hold, and regraded it to over 8c (now considered 9a).[6]
    • Malvasia – Dvigrad (CRO) – 1988. First ascent;[7] now considered 8c+ after some of the holds broke.[8][9]
    • Il Maratoneta – Paklenica (CRO) – 1987. First ascent, and only two yeaars after the first-ever 8b+.[7]
  • 8b (5.13d):
    • O ce l'hai… o ne hai bisogno – Vette Feltrine/Baule (ITA) – 1990
    • Ultimo Movimento – Totoga (ITA) – 1986. First ascent and first-ever 8b (5.13d) in Italy.[10]
  • 8a+ (5.13c):
    • Terminator – Totoga (ITA) – 1985. First ascent and first-ever 8a+ (5.13c) in Italy.[11]
  • 7c+ (5.13a):
    • Il Mattino dei Maghi – Totoga (ITA) – 1981. First ascent, and possibly one of the earliest 7c+ routes.[1]

Onsight

  • Rock and Blues 8b+ (5.14a), Kalymnos (GRE) – 19 June 2009. Manolo was 51 at the time.[12]
  • La Pista 8a (5.13b), Arco – 1989.
  • La Fissure Serge (7c+), Buoux – 1988.

Free solo

  • Masala Dosa 8a (5.13b) in Totoga, in San Silvestro cliff – 1992.
  • La Gatta 7c (5.12d), Mount Totoga – 1990.

Bibliography

  • Zanolla, Maurizio "Manolo" (April 2018). Eravamo immortali ("We were immortal"). Fabbri. ISBN 978-8891517579.
  • Zak, Heinz (November 1996). Rock Stars: World's Best Free Climbers. Cordee. ISBN 978-3763370443.

See also

Wikimedia Commons has media related to Maurizio Zanolla.

References

  1. ^ a b Stefanello, Vinicio (19 December 2016). "Manolo, climbing and Il Mattino dei Maghi: first repeat in 35 years". PlanetMountain. Retrieved 7 April 2023.
  2. ^ a b Ryan, Mick (22 January 2008). "48 year old Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla climbs 9a/+". UKClimbing. Retrieved 7 April 2023.
  3. ^ Gallo, Andrea (6 October 2010). "Maurizio, Manolo, Mago". PlanetMountain. Retrieved 7 April 2023.
  4. ^ "Manolo and Roby Present, new climb in Val Noana". PlanetMountain. 28 March 2012. Retrieved 7 April 2023.
  5. ^ "Gioele Piffer (15) repeats L'Arte di salire in alto, historic Rolando Larcher 8c at Celva". PlanetMountain. 12 January 2022. Retrieved 7 April 2023.
  6. ^ "Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla climbs vertical 8c". PlanetMountain. 6 December 2001. Retrieved 7 April 2023.
  7. ^ a b Stefanello, Vinicio (31 January 2013). "Il Maratoneta, third repeat by Ivan Lisica-Lija and a little history about this famous Manolo climb". PlanetMountain. Retrieved 7 April 2023.
  8. ^ "Malvasia 22 years later... the first repeat by Cody Roth and the recollections of Manolo". PlanetMountain. 1 January 2011. Retrieved 7 April 2023.
  9. ^ "Alessandro Zeni repeats Malvazija at Dvigrad in Croatia". PlanetMountain. 9 March 2023. Retrieved 7 April 2023.
  10. ^ Zeni, Alessandro (28 October 2015). "Alessandro Zeni repeats Ultimo Movimento by Manolo at Totoga". PlanetMountain. Retrieved 7 April 2023.
  11. ^ "Lines Of Legends ft. Terminator at Totoga by Manolo". PlanetMountain. 12 July 2021. Retrieved 7 April 2023.
  12. ^ Stefanello, Vinicio (25 June 2009). "Manolo 8b+ on-sight at Kalymnos". PlanetMountain. Retrieved 8 April 2023.
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