Laura Rogora

Laura Rogora
Personal information
NationalityItalian
Born (2001-04-28) April 28, 2001 (age 23)
Rome, Italy
OccupationProfessional rock climber
Height152 cm (5 ft 0 in)
Weight43 kg (95 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known for
  • Second youngest ever (at age 14) to climb at 9a (5.14d)
  • Third-ever female to climb at 9b (5.15b).
First ascents
  • Rèveille-toi (9a)
  • Sitting Bull (8c+/9a)
  • Ercole (8c/+)
  • La Gasparata (8c+/9a)
  • Supercrack (8b+/8c)
  • Tomorrowland Ext (8c+/9a)
Medal record
Women's competition climbing
Representing  Italy
World Championships
Bronze medal – third place 2021 Moscow Lead
European Championships
Gold medal – first place 2024 Villars Lead
Gold medal – first place 2024 Villars Combined
Silver medal – second place 2019 Edinburgh Lead
Updated on 30 July 2023

Laura Rogora (born 28 April 2001) is an Italian rock climber who specializes in sport climbing and in competition climbing (and competition lead climbing in particular). In 2021, she became the third-ever female climber in history to redpoint a 9b (5.15b)-graded sport climbing route, with her ascent of Erebor in Italy.

Climbing career

Competition climbing

In 2019, Rogora qualified to compete at the 2020 Summer Olympic Games,[1] by finishing second in lead climbing at the IFSC Climbing European Championships[2] and won 3 of 4 possible gold medals at the IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships, coming first in lead climbing, bouldering and the combined categories in the Junior age group.[3]

She competed at the 2020 Summer Olympics, in Women's combined Olympic climbing.[4][5]

Sport climbing

In 2015, aged 14, she became the second youngest climber to redpoint a 9a (5.14d)–graded sport climbing route. In 2021, she became the third-ever female in history to redpoint a 9b (5.15b)-graded sport route.[6]

In 2023, Rogora made the first female ascent (and, as it was a free ascent, the first female free ascent) of the Lapsus, a 9a+ (5.15a)–graded sport climbing route in Italy.[7]

Notable ascents

Redpointed routes

  • 9b (5.15b)
  • 9a+ (5.15a)
    • Lapsus, Italy, November 2023 (First female ascent of the route)[7]
    • Ali Hulk Sit Extension Total, Rodellar, Spain, July 2020 (was once considered potential 9b)[8][9]
    • Pure Dreaming Plus, Arco, Italy, 30 May 2020 (First female ascent and first repeat of the route, established by Adam Ondra)[10]
    • The Bow, Arco, Italy, November 2020[11]
  • 9a (5.14d)
    • Grandi Gesti, Sperlonga, Italy, March 2016
    • Joe-cita, Oliana, Spain, February 2017
    • Esclatamasters, Perles [ca], Spain, January 2019
    • La Bongada, Margalef, Spain, January 2020
    • The Bomb, Rodellar, Spain, July 2020
  • 8c+/9a (5.14c/5.14d)
    • Pal Norte, Margalef, Spain, December 2019
    • Underground, Massone, Italy, June 2020
  • 8c+ (5.14c)
    • Joe Blau, Oliana, Spain, January 2017
    • Hulk Extension Total, Rodellar, Spain, July 2020
  • 8c (5.14b)
    • Ciccio Formaggio, Grotta dell’Aerenauta, Sperlonga, Italy, December 2014 (her first 8c at age 13).
    • Il Corvo, Ferentillo, Italy, April 2015
    • Wallstreet, Frankenjura, Germany, August 2016

First ascents

  • Tomorrowland extension, 8c+/9a (5.14c/5.14d), Cueva di Collepardo, November 2016
  • Supercrack, 8c+/9a (5.14c/5.14d), Cueva di Collepardo, December 2016
  • La Gasparata, 8c+/9a (5.14c/5.14d), Cueva di Collepardo, January 2017
  • Ercole, 8c+ (5.14c), Cueva di Collepardo, March 2017
  • It segid narg, 8c+ (5.14c), Grotta dell'Arenauta Sperlonga, December 2017
  • Sitting Bull, 8c+/9a (5.14c/5.14d), Cueva di Collepardo, April 2018
  • Rèveille-toi, 9a (5.14d), Cueva di Collepardo, June 2019

Onsighted routes

  • 8b+ (5.14a)
    • Ixeia, Rodellar, Spain, July 2020
    • L-mens, Montsant, Spain, January 2020

Competition climbing highlights

IFSC Olympic qualifying

IFSC Climbing European Championships

  • 2020 IFSC Climbing World Cup (Briançon)
    • Women lead: 1st
  • 2019 IFSC Climbing European Championships (Edinburgh)
    • Women lead: 2nd

IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships

  • 2019 IFSC Youth World Championships (Arco)
    • Female Youth Juniors combined: 1st
    • Female Youth Juniors boulder: 1st
    • Female Youth Juniors lead: 1st
  • 2018 IFSC Youth World Championships (Moscow)
    • Female Youth A boulder: 1st
    • Female Youth A lead: 6th
  • 2017 IFSC Youth World Championships (Innsbruck)
    • Female Youth A combined: 6th
    • Female Youth A boulder: 4th
    • Female Youth A combined: 5th

European Youth Championships

  • 2017 European Youth Championships (Lead & Speed) (Perm)
    • Female Youth A lead: 4th

See also

References

  1. ^ "SIX WOMEN QUALIFY FOR OLYMPICS IN TOULOUSE". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 1 December 2019. Retrieved 2020-01-13.
  2. ^ "Lučka Rakovec and Adam Ondra crowned European Climbing Champions in Edinburgh". Planet Mountain. 6 October 2019. Retrieved 2020-01-13.
  3. ^ "IFSC YOUTH WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS - ARCO (ITA) 2019". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 31 August 2019. Retrieved 2020-01-13.
  4. ^ "Laura Rogora, arrampicando verso Tokyo". VanityFair.it (in Italian). 2021-04-30. Retrieved 2021-09-25.
  5. ^ "Sport Climbing ROGORA Laura - Tokyo 2020 Olympics". olympics.com. Retrieved 2021-09-25.
  6. ^ "Fifteen-Year-Old Laura Rogora Sends Joe-Cita (5.14d)". Rock & Ice. 28 February 2017. Retrieved 2020-01-13.
  7. ^ a b "Laura Rogora makes first female ascent of Lapsus (9a+) at Andonno". PlanetMountain.com.
  8. ^ Climber News. "Laura Rogora Second Woman To Climb 9b "Ali Hulk Sit Extension Total"". Climber News.
  9. ^ "Ali Hulk extensión total sit start 9a+ (b) by Alex Garriga". 8a.nu. 23 August 2021. Retrieved 21 January 2022.
  10. ^ "Pure Dreaming Plus 9a+ by Laura Rogora (18)". www.8a.nu. 1 June 2020. Retrieved 2020-06-01.
  11. ^ "Laura Rogora Sends The Bow 5.15a". Retrieved 2020-11-25.
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