Jeogori or tseogori (Korean: 저고리; Korean pronunciation:[t͡ɕʌ̹ɡo̞ɾi]) is a basic upper garment of the hanbok, a traditional Koreangarment, which has been worn by both men and women.[1] Men usually wear the jeogori with a baji or pants while women wear the jeogori with chima, or skirts. It covers the arms and upper part of the wearer's body.[2][3][4]
Etymology
The jeogori has been worn since ancient times and went by a variety of names such as yu (유; 襦; lit. jacket), boksam (복삼; 複杉), and wihae (위해; 尉解) in the Three Kingdoms period (57 BC – 668 AD).[5]
Although it is unknown when the term jeogori began to be used to refer to the garment, it is assumed to have appeared in the late Goryeo period around King Chungnyeol's reign. The first historical document to mention the jeogori is in the Cheonjeonui (천전의; 遷奠儀) of Queen Wongyeong, which was a funeral ceremony for carrying the coffin out of the palace. The document written in 1420 during the second reign of Sejong the Great records jeokgori (적고리; 赤古里) and danjeokgori (단적고리; 短赤古里).[5][2] However, it is not clear whether the record is a hanja transliteration of a Korean word or Mongolian influence. Before the Goryeo period, such an upper garment was referred to as wihae (위해; 尉解; Chinese: 尉解; pinyin: wèijiě) in Silla.[6] As the uihae was a transliteration of the Silla language, dialect forms such as uti and uchi still remain to present.[2][3][4]
Traditionally, a jeogori is made out of leather, woolen fabrics, silk, hemp or ramie.[7][8][9] Modern Korean designers sometimes use other materials such as lace.[7][10] There are several types of jeogori according to fabric, sewing technique, and shape.[4][5]
The basic form of a jeogori consists of gil (길), git(깃), dongjeong(동정), goreum (고름) and sleeves somae: the gil is the large section of the garment in both front and back side and git is a band of fabric that trims the collar. The dongjeong is a removable white collar placed over the end of the git and is generally squared off. The goreum are coat strings attached to the breast part to tie the jeogori.[11] Women's jeogori may have kkeutdong (끝동), a different coloured cuff placed on the end of the sleeves. The form of jeogori has been changed as time goes by.[4]
History
Previously in Korea, jeogori were worn over bottom garments.[7] The earliest known depictions of the jeogori are on Goguryeo murals.[12]
The original silhouette for banbokjeogori shared similarities with the clothing of the ancient nomadic people of Eurasia due to the cultural exchanges that ancient Koreans had with the Scythians.[13][14] The ancient jeogori had an open form, a collar which crossed to the left (좌임; 左衽), narrow sleeves, and was hip-length which were similar features found in the Scythian clothing-style.[13][15] Some ancient jeogori also had a front central closure similar to a kaftan;[1] this form of jeogori with a central closure is mostly found during the Goguryeo period and was worn by people of lower status.[16] The jeogori initially closed with the front, central closure; it then changed to left closure before changing again to right closure (우임; 右衽).[1] The change in collars direction from right-to-left (i.e. left closure) to left-over-right (i.e. right closure), along with the use of wide sleeves, which are found in many jackets and coats were due ancient Chinese influences; these Chinese influences on the jeogori are reflected and depicted in Goguryeo paintings.[17][18][19][3] The closure of the jeogori on the right side is an imitation of the Chinese jackets.[20] The closure to the right became an accepted standard since the sixth century AD.[1]
During the Goryeo Period (918–1392), jeogori became shorter, with slimmer sleeves.[7]
Joseon
In the Joseon Period, jeogori lengths and style fluctuated depending on current fashion and social standing.[7]
In the 16th century, women's jeogori were long, wide, and covered the waist. The length of women's jeogori gradually shortened. A heoritti (허리띠) or jorinmal (졸잇말) was worn to cover the chest.[12] This was to fit in style with a large wig and skirt.[22]
Modern styles
In contemporary Korea, the sumptuary laws within different social classes were lifted and colours, decorations, and fabrics that were exclusive to the upper classes were open to all classes. This allowed for the growth of diverse traditional design elements in hanbok styles. However, in the 20th and 21st centuries, the traditional Korean clothing has not been worn every day by most people.[7] The hanbok became more reserved for special events, such as ceremonial or bridal wear, which carries onto current time.[7] During their own engagement celebrations, women may wear pink jeogori.[23] After they are married, women may wear indigojeogori.[23] Additionally, modern silhouettes are commonly slimmer and more simplified than historical styles.[7][24]
^박, 선희 (1998) [1998]. "고대 한국의 복식 재료 : 가죽과 모직" [The Clothing Material in Ancient Korea - leather and woolen fabrics -]. Journal of the Korea Fashion & Costume Design Association. 53p: Types of leather and processed goods=83,82,20 Woolen Fabrics and processed goods=114,113,15. ISSN1226-1548 – via KSI.
^ ab허 [Heo], 윤희 [Yeonhee] (2011). "조선 여인 저고리 길이 300년간 2/3나 짧아져" [The length of the Korean women's jeogori has shortened by 2/3 in 300 years.]. 조선닷컴 (in Korean). Retrieved 6 September 2019.
^ ab김 [Kim], 문자 [Munja] (1984). 고대한국복식의 원류에 관한 연구 : 스키타이계 복식문화를 중심으로 [A Study on the Origins of Ancient Korean Clothing: Focusing on Scythian Costume Culture]. EWHA Womans University Library (Thesis). Retrieved 6 February 2021.
^Lee, Han-sang (2014). "신라 복식의 변천과 그 배경" [Transformations of Costume in Silla through Time and Their Background]. The Journal of the Research Institute for Silla Culture. 43: 137–171.
